under the spell of the desert

The Jordanian desert is characterized by soft red and brown hues that turn an unreal blue on the horizon. Here you encounter an endless expanse interrupted by absurd rock formations that are sometimes conical, then pointed, and elsewhere round – lots of sand, camels, and that soothing silence. Because everything is quiet in Wadi Rum. The noise of everyday life seems far away. No one thinks about problems here anymore. The world stands in the middle of the desert. Looks like someone pressed the pause button.

Suddenly the wind rages in my ears, tossing my hair and roughly pulling me out of my thoughts. Someone pressed play again. We are sitting in the back of a jeep that takes us to our camp. Loud laughter, wild howls. One of the adventures that awaits visitors to Wadi Rum: a jeep ride at sunset.

We stop and climb on a dune to get the best view. The set fireball paints the surreal landscape that served as the shooting location for the movie “The Martian” (2015) in cotton candy colors. My knees and hind legs are throbbing as walking on sand can be tiring, but the climb is worth it: the view is priceless and takes my breath away.

1. Wadi Rum

You can travel in the Jordanian desert by 4×4 vehicle or camel. The first takes us to distant places and to our sleeping place – Hassan Zawaideh Camp, while with the second we go horseback riding at sunrise.

The grand prize of this retreat: We’re looking at a perfect night sky, away from all the light pollution. This is a gift, this is calmness and originality. You can even catch the starry sky from your bed if you leave the curtains open on your balloon at night.

And the desert is full of these buildings. Bubbles are popping out of the ground like mushrooms. Why? Why? The reason for this was the Hollywood movie “The Martian”. It’s like camping on another planet. Extraterrestrial formations strangely mix with the arid environment.

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2. Petra

When traveling to Jordan, the tourist magnet Petra should not be missing from the program. The wonder of the world has always fascinated me. It has always been a dream of mine to walk through the wind-worn rocky gorges of the Jordanian desert as I slowly approach the world-famous Treasure, which has previously been the subject of photography for many visitors.

And it really is just as enchanting as I imagined it: After walking the wasteland for a while and craving this moment after every bend, this ancient site of the ancient Nabataean kingdom finally shines through the rocks. Just like in the photos. Just like I dreamed. Great, extraordinary, old. Despite the enormous crowds and wild confusion of tourists, camels, and locals eager to help you take the perfect picture, the air is magically packed.

“Petra is Jordan’s biggest attraction, but there is so much more to discover in this wonderful country,” our guide Mohammed Awwad says with conviction. Why You Should Visit the Arab Kingdom The Jordanian says: “The people are very welcoming, it’s a safe and diverse place, it’s not too expensive to travel to, and the food is very, very good.”

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3. Madaba

We can taste it again and again on our trip. Hummus, baba ganoush, stuffed leaves and refreshing lemon mint soda that I can’t get enough of. Lovers of oriental spices and fresh ingredients will get their money’s worth in Jordan. Everything here tastes intense and there is so much to try. A favorite of the locals is mansaf, a dish consisting mainly of lamb and rice, served on a large platter.

We can taste these delicacies at Haret Jdoudna Restaurant in Madaba, also known as the “City of Mosaics”. You sit in the garden under tall trees that provide shade on hot days, there is a lot of activity inside and different appetizers are served with care in small plates.

On the streets of Madaba you can feel how far back Jordanian history goes. About 30 kilometers from the capital Amman and mentioned several times in the Bible, St. George’s Church, it houses the oldest cartographic representation of the Holy Land. The work made of mosaic is said to date from the middle of the 6th century AD.

Besides religious sites, Madaba also has various shops. There are souvenir shops one after another on the main street. Dates, spices, magnets or rugs are served. But if you look closely, you’ll find extraordinary boutiques every now and then. Just like the World Shop of artisan Qais. “We only sell local products. I wanted to create something different that would stand out, not an unconventional gift shop,” she says affectionately. The scent of incense sticks fills the air, and a bust-shaped candle burns in the background.

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4. Red Sea

The city of Aqaba, with a population of approximately 200,000, is located on the Red Sea coast. Locals go there mostly for shopping, as Mohammed told us. Since there is no tax on the products, a lot of material is bought here.”

For foreign tourists, the Red Sea and its biodiversity are the highlights of the region. Written On a snorkeling trip with Alsaed, I understand why: I see more colorful coral reefs than I have seen in a long time. Meeting lionfish or turtles is part of daily life for the Writer. Capturing this richness of the sea with a camera fills Jordan’s heart.

Not only Yazan is influenced by the underwater world, but also the Swiss Martina Schneiter-Lüchinger of Affoltern am Albis ZH. The bead artist met the dive guide while traveling to Jordan with his family in 2018. «He was very impressed with my photos and inspired by them he created a collection of glass beads. My photographs were also included in the exhibition,” says Yazan proudly. Cooperation turned into a close friendship. The Jordanian visits the family twice a year and has also increased his love for Switzerland. «Swiss people have a close bond with nature, I love it!»

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5. Dead Sea

Another body of water in Jordan is said to have a healing effect: Every year, countless people visit the Dead Sea as a health resort. The border between Israel and Jordan runs right through it, we’re swimming on the Jordanian side.

Part of the experience is a mud mask spread all over the body. Important: you must first dare to step into the water, then apply the mass, then let it take effect, and then wash everything off. Skin feels super soft afterwards. I keep touching my arms because I can’t believe it.

A little tip: it is more comfortable to wear water shoes when entering the Dead Sea. Depending on the location, stones can be sharp due to salt deposits. If you choose a beach resort with a hotel – we stayed at the Marriott – shoes are also provided.

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This post was created as part of a press tour.