Swiss family immortalizes itself in Argentina

Swiss entrepreneur legend Donald M. Hess (86) has an impressive biography that also wrote an exciting chapter in Argentina. The focus is on the viticulture region of Salta, which for a long time was the highest region in the world.

Here the vines can grow up to 3,111 meters above sea level and allow their vines to fully mature as it is still warm enough due to its proximity to the equator. Strong sunlight promotes the formation of high-quality, mature tannins and intense colours, while cool nights keep the wine fresh.

The extreme climatic conditions in Salta form the basis for the unique wines that the visionary Hess recognized early on and bought the Colomé winery in 1998. Between 2001 and 2008, Hess lived with his wife Ursula (75) and daughter Larissa (45) in Argentine wineries for several months a year. This also includes a museum of works by American artist James Turrell (79), with whom Hess was a long-time friend.

Hess and his wife have been living in Switzerland again since 2017 and have retired from social life. Her daughter Larissa now holds the strings of the family winery with her husband Christoph Ehrbar (46). Blick wine editor Nicolas Greinacher was able to talk to Ehrbar about his Argentine family project and taste the latest Bodega Colomé wines.

Blick: Mr. Ehrbar, after spending a few years in Argentina you are now living in Bern again. What do you miss about life in Argentina?
Christoph Ehrbar: What we definitely miss is time. to have time to live life. Many Argentines work for a living. We Swiss live to work. Not everything has to be instant, not every email has to be answered within two minutes. The people of Argentina are warm and hospitable to each other. It was the positive attitude that always impressed us. Life in Argentina is not easy but Argentines have a very positive attitude towards life and they always find a way. They look ahead and look for solutions.

What is your best memory of your time at Colomé Winery?
It’s great to experience the reaction of visitors. Colomé is the place of extremes. Whether via Cachi or Cafyate, the road from Salta is a superior and adventurous journey. Whenever we see the eyes of our visitors, they may be tired, but they shine with excitement, admiration and excitement about what they are about to experience in Colomé. Great conversations and sharing of experiences is always great and makes us proud of our jewel in the Andes. Due to its remoteness – the nearest major city is five hours away and largely accessible only by gravel roads – Colomé is so unexpected and hard for visitors to imagine.

Colomé became a source of employment and income for many villagers. What was your experience dealing with local people?
Yes, we employ around 100 people living in Finca Colomé. In total, about 500 people live on the site. We get along very well with each other and help each other. For example, my wife and I sponsored a multi-purpose hall for the population where basketball can be played alongside football, which is very important in Argentina.

What is your favorite dish to drink with Argentinian wines?
Red meat Malbec, but currently with game or Fondue Chinoise in winter. Our white wine Colomé Torrontés is not only an excellent aperitif, but also goes well with sushi as well as spicy foods like Thai curry. By the way, the taste of Colomé Torrontés must certainly be young and cold.

Are there current plans to expand or develop the winery?
We currently have around 130 hectares of vines in Colomé, but at the same time we don’t want to print mass-produced wines, instead we prioritize quality. My father-in-law, Donald M. Hess, has always had a vision of making a high quality, environmentally friendly wine and offering it at a reasonable price. My wife and I are firmly committed to this vision. Last year we successfully launched the only vineyard Colomé El Arenal Malbec. By the way, this was the first vineyard that my mother-in-law bought in 1998. We are working hard to open a new wine bar at our other winery, Bodega Amalaya. My wife Larissa is managing the project with our team in Buenos Aires.

This is how Bodega Colomé wines taste

Torrontés is an exciting white grape variety grown only in Argentina. The nose of 2021 Bodega Colomé Valle Calchaquí stands out with aromas of fresh orange flowers, apricot, peach, grape and lichi. Developed dry and embedded in a tight acid structure, this wine shows the great potential of the vines planted at an altitude of 1,700 meters above sea level.

2019 Malbec Estate Valle Calchaquí displays floral, dark fruit and spicy notes along with a deep, deep red color typical of premium Malbecs. It is characterized by a strong palate, mature and firm tannins and a good acidity. The grapes of this wine, which has been aged for 15 months in oak barrels, come from vineyards at an altitude of 1,700 to 3,111 meters above sea level.

2019 El Arenal Valle Calchaquí offers a large Malbec cinema. The grapes for this wine come from a single vineyard located at an altitude of about 2,600 meters above sea level. Here you can see the clear aromas of violets, blueberries, blackberries, spices, black pepper, chocolate and roasted aromas. Compared to the 2019 Malbec Estate Valle, the tannins are a little more gripping, but the overall impression remains round and bright. A glorious Malbec with definite aging potential.