Counter-cyclical travel: to the sea in winter

This year you can easily swim in Sicily until the end of November: during the long and hot summer months the water warmed up to 30 degrees, and at the moment it is still 23 degrees warm. The largest island in the Mediterranean is one of the must-visit destinations in late autumn and winter.

Composer Richard Wagner (1813–1883) spent one of his last winters in Palermo, Sicily, where he completed his last work, Parsifal. He raved about the six months he spent in Sicily: “We’re not here to spend the winter; there’s only summer and spring here.”

Pleasant temperatures are one thing, but non-cyclical travel has other advantages. Instead of navigating narrow streets alongside crowds of sweating people or eating spaghetti in a tourist trap, outside of high season you can get close to locals and enjoy the island’s sights in a friendly atmosphere. Whether in the quiet town of Taormina or Noto. The baroque city in the southeast of the island has gained widespread fame thanks to Netflix’s current series “Chef’s Table.” It introduces Pasticceria Caffè Sicilia, which offers not only typical Sicilian pastries but also hot almond soup.

Important: heating and infrastructure

The southeast of Sicily is more developed in terms of tourism and is also more densely populated, full of cultural treasures and charming seaside towns such as Syracuse and the island of Ortigia. The island is significantly emptied in winter, but the infrastructure with open restaurants and hotels is very important: with heating! – ruins.

If you’re looking for more peace and quiet, you’ll find it in the west of the island. In summer 2022, a new hotel opened on the edge of the Riserva Torre Salsa nature reserve. The South Tyrolean hotelier Sanoner family has touched the nerves of the times with the Adler Spa Resort Sicilia: a wellness resort by the sea, in the middle of untouched nature, carefully constructed of wood and glass, embedded in the landscape and largely appropriately constructed. It complies with ecological standards. The kilometer-long beach is untouched, you can walk and swim here, but it is undeveloped; only a few beach lounge chairs are allowed. It was clear from the beginning that the hotel would remain open during the winter, except for a short break. Warm outdoor baths with views of the crashing waves provide cozy comfort.

Christmas in Palermo

Visiting Palermo in December is especially worthwhile. If you’re lucky, you can enjoy your arancini (fried rice balls are the island’s specialty) outside at 25 degrees. In the evenings, the flamboyant Christmas lights in the old town warm your heart. You can buy gifts at Christmas markets, and fancy restaurants on Via Vittorio Emanuele invite you to feast. We recommend the nearby, well-established Hotel Wagner to spend the night. Otherwise, it is worth looking for a holiday apartment with a roof terrace early enough.

The cliché that only golf-playing retirees spend the winter in Marbella is no longer valid. At the latest since the pandemic, a new generation has discovered the Costa del Sol in the south of Spain. Whether to spend the winter in a flexible workplace or for vacation. Due to its microclimate and location in the Mediterranean, temperatures can rise up to 26 degrees during the day and rarely fall below 10 degrees at night. Since there are 320 sunny days a year, the weather is particularly likely to be nice.

There are no ballerinas and many things remain closed in typical tourist towns: you can experience the Balearic island in a completely different atmosphere in winter. The capital, Palma, is especially valuable. You can shop in peace and visit the famous cathedral with a few other visitors. It may rain in January and February, but only six to eight days per month on average; but the island is green. The climate is mild and you can enjoy a cappuccino or beer outside when the sun is shining.

It is the largest island of Greece and, together with the islet of Gavdos, the southernmost tip of Europe. Calm will return to Greece at the end of October when the last charter flights fail. It’s the ideal time to visit ancient temple complexes, you have the beach almost to yourself for walks, and brave souls can still venture into the waters even in December. Although most beach hotels are closed, there is plenty of accommodation and taverns in Chania. The city, where the old port and baths are located, is considered the Venice of Greece.

The winter sun bathes Lisbon in warm light, enveloping the Portuguese capital like a sepia filter. During the cold season, you share the city with locals rather than tourists. Not only temperatures are dropping, but also prices: ideal for shopping at the many Christmas markets. The focal point is the huge Christmas tree in Praca do Comercio. The city is also known for its nightlife. Free concerts and huge fireworks displays are held on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Eve.