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Wine ratings with a perfect 100 are rewarded more often than ever before. Among other things, British wine critic Neil Martin, who has been writing for Parker for several years, refuses to follow this trend. We see the publication of his new Bordeaux book* as an opportunity to talk to him and find out how well he knows Swiss wines.
Blick: Why does the world need wine critics?
Neil Martin: Wine critics are actually completely irrelevant. Even without wine critics, wineries would continue to bottle their wines. But as wines are getting more and more expensive these days, I think wine critics are more important than ever. Without wine critics, there would no longer be independent voices separating wheat from chaff when it comes to wine. Wine critics are also important because wineries are increasingly marketing their wines as luxury goods and relying on branding. In this context, wine critics take an objective position and make a judgment with which their audiences agree or disagree. However, in the latter case, a wine critic’s career will likely be short-lived.
What separates a wannabe wine critic from a professional?
American writer and journalist Michael Steinberger (56) once said that anyone can be a wine critic nowadays. But he is only partially right. The internet allows everyone to have a say, and that’s a good thing. But it also produces a lot of nonsense. The difference is that a professional critic must meet certain criteria: in-depth expertise, personal experience with standards, objectivity, ability to communicate and therefore language skills and hard work ethic. I also work on weekends, so unfortunately I rarely see my two children.
How many wines do you typically taste each day on the go?
Around 40 to 60 with the occasional break between visits or on a flight. Sometimes I try more but this is pretty unusual. People often forget that I’m paid to write, not to drink. That’s why I spend about half of my time thinking and writing.
If you associate Switzerland with anything, would it be wine?
NO. But not tasting enough Swiss wine is my fault, not Switzerland’s fault. Here in the UK we see very little Swiss wine. I tend to associate Switzerland with the Yello band, Roger Federer (41), stylish watches and snow-capped mountains.
Do you still remember the last Swiss wine you tasted?
Yes, it was an excellent 2018 Pinot Noir Réserve Privée by Martin Donatsch (44).
Let’s talk about your new Bordeaux book, where you describe all the vintages between 1870 and 2020. How long did it take to collect all the information?
I started writing in the second year of the 2021 quarantine so it didn’t take long. I usually write in my spare time while waiting for the train or late at night. It was like putting a puzzle together.
In the book, you literally spice up each Bordeaux vintage by talking about cultural events like music or movies released that year, or cultural events like political events. Why not just write about wine in a wine book?
That would be very boring. There’s enough boring wine literature already, and I don’t want to add anything more to it. It is important for me to stand out from other spellings so that my texts gain a personal touch. There is no wine in a hermetically sealed world. Wine is a part of daily life that writing about wine should reflect. My book takes this idea and takes it even further. And it works so well because it expands the audience and doesn’t just appeal to those who are obsessed with wine.
Many have the impression that the prices of Bordeaux wines are now exorbitantly high. Do you agree?
Yes. I miss the times when I could get a decent Bordeaux from a weaker old model. This was an important part of my learning process and was rejected by the younger generation unless you were born rich. On the other hand, everything is relative. Bordeaux is significantly more expensive than South Africa, but much cheaper than many wines from Burgundy or California. Winemakers often don’t realize that by targeting a more affluent audience, they’re excluding a large proportion of those who have a real passion for their craft. Instead, they appeal to consumers for whom the label is more important than the content. Is that really what these winemakers want?
Excellent wine ratings are skyrocketing everywhere. You are more reluctant to give 100 points. What are your personal requirements for a wine that deserves this rating?
This 100 point inflation is ridiculous. Many people will be disappointed when opening this type of wine at home. And wine critics who let wines beat low barriers will sooner or later lose their credibility. By the way, this is already happening. For me, the perfect wine goes beyond conventional benchmarks. It enters a spiritual plane reserved for only a very few bottles. The prerequisite is that there is no doubt that the person is in the presence of a 100-point wine. If even a fleeting moment of doubt arises, it’s not worth 100 points. Whenever I give 100 points, it should be an event. When you shrug casually when you taste a 100-rated wine at the latest, so-called wine critics are forced to ask themselves if they’re just PR.
If I were to ask you to choose a Bordeaux vintage from 1870 to 2020 with which you have a special personal bond, which would you choose and why?
Let’s put aside the year I was born, 1971, which I often praised. It may be cliche, when you consider the historical context, there is something magical and poignant about 1945s. I also have a fondness for 1955 that seems consistent for both Bordeaux and Burgundy. Vintage has been underestimated for years, and I only started praising it after a spiritual 1955 Lynch Bages. I’m also interested in notorious antiquities like 1946 or 1956 because they’re so rare. The wines themselves may be weak, but the backdrop of a tough season is intriguing. There are five wines I have never tasted in the 20th century: 1901, 1903, 1905, 1910 and 1932. I would love to try these wines.
You have just returned from Bordeaux, where you tasted the wines of 2022. How many wines have you tasted and do you share the general enthusiasm of other wine critics for this wine?
Several times I tasted about 700 wines, including those from the best castles. Basically, I share the enthusiasm of others, but probably with less potential 100-point wines.
* Neil Martin, “The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide: 150 Years from 1870 to 2020”, Hardie Grant, London (in English).
Source : Blick
I am Dawid Malan, a news reporter for 24 Instant News. I specialize in celebrity and entertainment news, writing stories that capture the attention of readers from all walks of life. My work has been featured in some of the world’s leading publications and I am passionate about delivering quality content to my readers.
