Stunk in paradise: Russian and Ukrainian exiles plunge Bali into chaos

Balinese have just celebrated Nyepi – the day of silence, the holiest Hindu holiday. During this day, public life comes to a complete standstill. Air traffic has been suspended. Radio and television stations do not broadcast programs. Lights are not allowed to be on, houses are not allowed to be left. Instead, the locals spend the day in meditation. The curfew for going out and lighting also applies to tourists.

Peace and serenity returned to Nyepi in Bali this year, even though the tropical island is currently experiencing stormy times.

After a few incidents, the island nation is increasingly losing patience with tourists. The core of the criticism: Russian and Ukrainian nationals. The anger has escalated to the point that the island is now demanding that visas be tightened – for both Russians and Ukrainians.

the backgrounds:

Sanctuary Bali

Even before the war started, Bali was a popular travel destination for Russians. Both invasion and mobilization have reinforced this trend. Many Russians of military age fled to Bali for fear of being drafted into the army. Since the island reopened its borders after the Corona pandemic last year, 58,000 Russians and 7,000 Ukrainians have flocked to the holiday island. When Moscow announced in January 2023 that it would conscript another half a million Russians, another 22,500 Russian nationals traveled to the Indonesian island.

Why is the island of the gods used as a refuge? There are several reasons for this. On the one hand, Bali has long been a popular workplace for the so-called digital nomads. The island is teeming with coworking cafes, where home workers do their work. On the other hand, the low cost of living and uncomplicated entry requirements make Bali attractive.

However, the easy entry is currently causing problems for the island state.

Violations of visa rules

The island state grants a single entry visa (visa on arrival) for 60 countries, including Russia and Ukraine. However, this is only valid for a maximum of 60 days and does not allow those entering Bali to work. Digital nomads who work for foreign companies are not officially allowed, but they are tolerated. Because: they bring the money – and spend it on the island.

The only problem is when tourists engage in activities intended for locals. It is therefore almost impossible to get a work visa. Some tourists therefore travel back and forth every 60 days to comply with the regulations. Bali takes strict action in the event of violations of the access rules. There is a risk of large fines, imprisonment or expulsion.

A case from last month shows that the authorities are not exactly prudish when it comes to violations. For the media, investigators showed a Russian hiding behind a black hoodie and an orange vest with the words “Detainee” (detainee). According to the authorities, the 27-year-old was illegally working as a photographer. He was caught for publicly advertising his services.

After his arrest, he was deported from the country. He was not allowed to return to Indonesia for at least six months.

This is not an isolated case. In the middle of the month, three Russian sex workers were deported after authorities received indications of “suspicious activity” in a villa. Before that, a Russian couple who had stayed on the island without a valid visa and offered yoga classes had been sent back home.

According to Bloomberg, 47 people have been deported from Bali this month alone for violating residence rules and abusing residence permits, including 13 Russian nationals. The other nationalities are unknown.

Local workers are displaced

The island’s three active volcanoes are sacred to the people. Some can be climbed – but only with a local guide. But Russians would have discovered this work themselves. A mountaineering entrepreneur told Al Jazeera:

Fake license plates

Since Bali does not have good public transport, traffic jams are inevitable. A journey of a few kilometers can take a good hour. To avoid traffic, many prefer to move around on a motorcycle. So do tourists.

However, the rental of motorcycles to tourists is currently under threat due to numerous violations and accidents, some of which have been fatal. Arrests for drunk driving related to accidents and possession of counterfeit license plates have increased, especially by Russians, Bali police said.

Bali therefore announced in the middle of the month that it would ban all tourists from renting motorcycles. Only cars may be rented. The decision is still pending. A ban could lead to even greater traffic chaos on the island.

How locals act against tourist misbehavior

In addition to an increased police presence on Bali’s streets, local residents are using social media to draw attention to tourists’ misconduct. The move came after the public was outraged at a Russian model who posed nude in front of a sacred 700-year-old tree. The influencer had to pay a high price for the snaps – in addition to a fine, she was expelled from the country.

But the authorities cannot do much with the many indications of alleged illegal activities on the island. Bali’s immigration chief Barron Ichsan told Al Jazeera:

According to Ichsan, this is hardly manageable: “Without clear evidence, we cannot deport anyone.” Nevertheless, the island announced earlier this month that it would set up a task force to take action against undocumented workers.

New visa rules for Russians and Ukrainians

The fact that Russian nationals in particular arouse popular anger is probably due to the fact that they are currently one of the largest tourist groups. “Whenever we get reports from a foreigner about bad behavior, it’s almost always a Russian,” a local police officer in the city of Kuta told CNN.

The fact is: there are always black sheep. Many Russians fled their homeland to avoid war. They feared for their lives and are now trying to build a new life abroad. “Many people who did not agree with the war fled to Bali — Russians, Ukrainians, Belarusians and others,” Russian Sergei Ovseikin told CNN. “We all get along very well and understand that the common people did not start this war.”

Yet the mayor of Bali, Wayan Koster, has run out of patience. He wants to abolish single-entry entry for Russian and Ukrainian citizens. Because Ukrainians also violated Indonesian law, mainly by misusing their identity by forging their visas. The decision is still pending. The Indonesian Ministry of Justice and Human Rights has yet to decide whether the visa requirement for certain nationalities can be tightened.

One thing is certain: the peace of the Nyepi Festival is over for now.