Necktie revival: Why smart suits are trendy in uncertain times

The thesis provides an answer to the question: The more uncertain the times, the more formal the case. This is confirmed by Ziad El-Achi, a freelance men’s tailor in the middle of Zurich’s old town: “The worse the economy, the better you have to act. “We want to show that we are successful”

There’s a lot of talk these days about mass layoffs, AI is throwing processes into disarray, and the geopolitical situation is fueling uncertainty. Companies and their managers want to show that everything is going well for them. They exude confidence and give strength with their elegant suits.

“People like to work with successful people,” says El-Achi, and performs a thought experiment: If you had to fire five people, those who always dress well and make an effort are automatically safer. Because beautiful appearance and a well-groomed appearance signal to the subconscious that these people are needed. “Oscar Wilde already said: “Nothing is as deep as the surface.”

Stylish suit for a good feeling

Konrad von Niederhäuser also knows the extent of uncertainty: “When the economy is coughing, you wonder whether you should continue wearing T-shirts or switch to a smart shirt,” says PKZ’s sales manager. He has been in the fashion industry for three decades and has seen some fluctuations in demand for ties.

He thinks the latest rise was triggered by pent-up demand after the pandemic rather than the economy: “Last year we sold 11 percent more ties compared to 2022. There is a trend from a casual look to a more business-oriented look,” says the sales manager.

During Corona, the demand for loungewear, which is comfortable clothes for the home, has exploded. But now people have a pent-up need for stylish clothing; They want to get rid of the messy look. “The passion for blazers, trouser suits or smart dresses is back.”

There is a trend towards classicism in today’s fashion; It’s no longer as unusual as it used to be, but it reflects a positive attitude: “There’s this feeling behind it: I want to be stylish.”

However, the tie does not directly benefit from this because the suit must be both stylish and comfortable. There may be a tie, but it is not necessary. Or as El-Achi puts it: “The tie has become a fad; From duty to pleasure.”

Italians show the way

Not so in Italy: models in ties walk the catwalks, and Italians in ties walk the sunny streets of Milan. Is it a sign that the fun will soon end and the tie will once again become a part of everyday life? “It is more closely connected to the Italian world of fashion and textiles,” says Oliver Weisbrod.

The sixth-generation Weisbrod-Zürrer co-managing director has been observing the market for a long time: “What is happening in Italy is different for us. The Italian man follows fashion quickly, the Swiss man more slowly.” Accordingly, necktie sales increased only very modestly – “especially at very formal events such as weddings or ceremonies”.

This is where the post-corona catch-up effect is strongest. “For many people, the child came first, then the wedding,” says PKZ sales manager von Niederhäuser with a smile. Holidays not celebrated will be compensated. The tie and also the bow tie, which is rarely found in the office, also benefit from this. “There are very few bow ties in the business sector,” says von Niederhäuser.

Don’t stand out and look serious

So we can say this: the tie is experiencing a resurgence in certain circles, but not in business. There it is seen as a sign of solemnity, while otherwise the festive or trendy aspect is at the forefront.

In France, the situation is completely different: there, almost every businessman and every politician wears a tie. Their motto is “tone upon tone”, everything is the same colour, as President Macron’s appearance shows. Konrad von Niederhäuser’s analysis: “Clothing should support the personality but not dominate it. The French way of thinking is: I must be better in content than my clothes.”

Thus, the politician draws attention away from his personality, unlike the Swiss who tries to highlight his personality with his suit. However, there is an important point that Christian vonrechnerberg, General Manager of Baur au Lac, sees every day in daily life: “Yes, clothes make a person. But the reality of wearing a tie quickly sets in.”

When in doubt, this means: Stay away from the tie; because you won’t look convincing if you feel visible discomfort.