In autumn and winter, St. Way of James: pilgrimage in the cold season

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The boom on St. James’s Way doesn’t seem to be slowing down. On the contrary, the number of pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela, the terminus of the Way of St. James, is increasing. As of October 2023, the pilgrim office had counted 380,000 pilgrims. However, many only cover the last 100 kilometers, which is the minimum distance required to obtain the official Hajj document. This means everything is much quieter the rest of the way. But yes: on popular routes you are rarely alone.

That’s why we often visit St. Petersburg in Spain in the winter. I’m traveling the Way of James. The tips below relate to my experience on the Camino Francés, but also apply to other routes in Spain and Portugal.

Why is winter the best time for the Camino de Santiago?

Admittedly, I love all the seasons on the Way of St. James: spring when nature wakes up, summer with its sparkling warmth, and warm autumn when you can sometimes pick grapes along the way. Spring and autumn (especially May and September) are now the most popular times, as many pilgrims avoid the summer months due to temperatures reaching 40 degrees.

The pilgrimage season begins at Easter and ends in October, when most hostels close. In other words: In the cold season there is (almost) the way to yourself! Then usually only St. You meet pilgrims who have walked the various Ways of James and who have a strong connection to the pilgrimage tradition. That’s why the atmosphere on St. James’s Way is different. In high season St. While the Way of the James often seems like a walking holiday (including organized tour groups), I think the winter pilgrimage experience is more authentic.

Infrastructure of the Camino in winter

The majority of lodges on the Camino Francés are now run by private providers, with accommodation generally only remaining open from Easter until October. In addition to private accommodation, there are also official hostels run by municipalities or regions. These are open all year round; sometimes even if the heating is only turned on when a pilgrim is at the door. That’s why it can be cold sometimes.

So you can find a bed even in winter. However, due to the small number of hostels, the planning stages are somewhat limited. In small villages, some bars and supermarkets are also closed during the winter months. At the latest, there is enough space on the stage to get refreshments.

In short: The infrastructure is sufficient even in winter. However, more precise daily planning is required.

How many pilgrims travel in winter?

During peak season, between 2,000 and 3,000 pilgrims come to Santiago per day; some peaks reach higher. There are only a few dozen in winter. You won’t encounter many other pilgrims while hiking and you can enjoy the view in peace.

How is the weather in winter?

The weather is also getting colder in Spain. Especially on the Meseta plateau, temperatures (especially at night) can drop below freezing. I spent most of the winter in Galicia, where the temperature rarely dropped below zero. The temperature during the day fluctuates between 10 and 15 degrees. In the sun, the thermometer reaches “T-shirt temperature” even in winter.

The whole of Spain is a winter rain zone. Therefore, you should expect rain. Especially in Galicia, the Atlantic brings moisture all year round. I experienced all kinds of variety on my winter Caminos in Galicia: from a week of perfect sunshine to days of constant rain.

St. in the winter What equipment do you need on the James Trail?

In addition to the normal trekking equipment you’ll carry with you for the rest of the year, you also need:

• thin thermal underwear, especially for the morning hours
• Insulating layer such as fleece or down jacket
• good raincoat
• rain pants
• gloves, scarf, hat
• Sleeping bag. In summer you can get by with a subtle click. You will need a thicker sleeping bag as some hostels are not fully heated in the winter. A temperature range of about 10 degrees is sufficient.

Which part of the route can you recommend?

Since I like to arrive in Santiago, I divide my route accordingly. With winter holidays of around two weeks, this corresponds to the route departing from Astorga via the Camino Francés to Santiago or from Porto via the Camino Portugues.

The daily schedule for Camino Frances might look like this:

Day 1: Astorga – Foncebadón – 26 kilometers
Day 2: Foncebadón – Ponferrada – 25 kilometers
Day 3: Ponferrada – Villafrance del Bierco – 24 kilometers
Day 4: Villafranca – O Cebreiro – 30 kilometers
Day 5: O Cebreiro – Tricastela – 21 kilometers
Day 6: Tricastela – Sarria – 26 kilometers
Day 7: Sarria – Portomarin – 22 kilometers
Day 8: Portomarin – Palas de Rei – 24 kilometers
Day 9: Palas de Rei – Ribadiso – 26 kilometers
Day 10: Ribadiso – O Pedrouzo – 22 kilometers
Day 11: O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela – 20 kilometers

Buen Camino!

Source : Blick