Premium wines: These Jura wineries are in full swing

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If you are looking for characteristic Jurassic wines, sooner or later you will come across Hélene Berthet’s (39) winery. While his family founded the place in the 80s, his father Jean learned the trade at the neighboring Domaine Jean Macle. About a third of the 14-hectare vineyards are located in the prime Château-Chalon region, where the best of the famous Vin Jaune come from. Although small areas are grown with the black grape varieties Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir at the winery, a total of 12 hectares is planted with white Savagnin and Chardonnay.

While the Jurassic summer brings scorching temperatures outside, Hélene shows me her lovely cool vaulted cellar where wines sleep peacefully. House specialties are stored in several barrels: the legendary Château-Chalon. Wines made from 100 percent Savagnin grapes should be stored for at least five years under a thin layer of yeast in wooden barrels that provide a certain degree of protection against oxidation. They are bottled in traditional 62 cm Clavelin bottles.

2015 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Château-Chalon is a seductively beautiful Vin Jaune overflowing with power and intensity. The nose shows delicate aromas of walnuts, almonds, bread crust, dried flowers and apples, straw and a dash of curry. The palate also presents itself at its best: complex, deep and highly concentrated. Although this gorgeous wine yellow is already perfect for drinking, it offers storage potential for another 50 years.

With a 65-hectare vineyard area, Domaine Rolet is one of the largest wineries in the French Jura. After changing hands five years ago, the new team has been working tirelessly to further improve the quality of the wines. Among other things, the transition to organic farming, common in the Jura, was initiated. The highlight of Domaine Rolet is the bottled Crémant du Jura in different varieties. When it comes to value for money, Rolet frothers are virtually unbeatable.

During my Large Roletta tasting, the 2021 Arbois Savagnin Ouillé caught my eye. Ouillé means that the wine does not expand by oxidation, unlike Vin Jaune. Aged in old French oak barrels for nine months, this vibrant white exudes delicate aromas of lemon zest, green apple and grapefruit with hints of white peach. The high and lively acidity characteristic of the Savagnin grape variety gives the wine a wonderful freshness. Attention music lovers: On July 21, the Rock’n’Rolet festival will take place at Domaine Rolet.

The Bourdy family has been making wine in the Jura since 1579. During my visit, Laura Bourdy (36) was busy bottling the 2016 Château-Chalon, so her father Jean-Francois (66) showed me the cellar and the wines. There is probably no other cellar in the entire Jura wine region where you can find vin jaune wines as old as this one. The style of the winery is deliberately elegant and filigree, you will not find richness and excessive concentration here.

Alongside a variety of red and white wines, Laura squeezes an orange wine from Chardonnay, which has been in contact with the grape skins for about three weeks. The result is an extremely aromatic and delicate accompaniment to food that wants to get drunk young. On the other hand, the freshly bottled 2016 Château-Chalon impresses with its nutty and cork flavors conveyed by medium body and fresh acidity. The only downside: only 1200 bottles were refilled.

Source : Blick