After a heated discussion: Reinhold Messner now retains the world record

class=”sc-29f61514-0 icZBHN”>

Since 1982, the German Himalayan chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski (70) has been collecting data from all 8000m expeditions, comparing them and publishing them on the website 8000ers.com. The findings that Jurgalski published last year caused a stir in the mountaineering world. A number of mountaineers are said to have turned back before reaching the “real summit”, including mountain legend Reinhold Messner (79) when he climbed Annapurna in 1985, for whom Jurgalski’s calculations had serious consequences. Those responsible for the Guinness Book of Records converted Messner’s record to a “legacy” record on their website.

Intended: The record was recognized at a time when the calculations did not correspond to current standards. Messner was previously believed to be the first person to climb all 14 of the world’s eight-thousanders – and also the first person to do so without the aid of bottled oxygen. Messner responded to the fuss to the German news agency: “He has no idea. He’s not an expert. He simply confused the mountain. Of course we reached the top.” What followed was a shitstorm against Jurgalski. Now, however, there has been a surprising turnaround, both at Jurgalski and on the Guinness website.

Facebook statement from Eberhard Jurgalski

Jurgalski rowed back a bit in a detailed Facebook post on Monday. He writes that there is a translation error. The German-language press “did not correctly translate the English word ‘Legacy’ (legacy, appreciation) used in the original press release, but mistranslated it as ‘obsolete’ (obsolete, was immediately ‘removed’).” However, that was far from what was meant. “It should have been clear that neither 8000ers.com nor Guinness wanted – or could – revoke these titles,” Jurgalski further explains. The findings are merely “well-thought-out suggestions.”

Today, Messner is still listed on the Jurgalski website in a ‘historical recognition table’ as the first alpinist to climb all 14 eight-thousanders – and therefore remains the king of mountaineers. “In conclusion, we would like to conclude that everything in this long process was well-intentioned and that there was never any intention to rewrite history or even cancel historical progress,” Jurgalski’s statement said.

Viesturs or Messner?

In the future there will be a separate list for top modern collectors, the “New 14-8K Collectors Era Table”. Only mountain climbers who have demonstrably been to the highest point will be accepted. The American Ed Viesturs (64) is currently in first place. Meaning: Actually there are two record holders. Messner for the traditional, Viesturs for the modern alpinists.

The records have also been revised on the Guinness website, reports “Spiegel”. Will the mood in the mountain world calm down now? (no)

Source: Blick