What to do if the dog is chasing other animals?

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The problem with hunting is the high energy that comes with it. A dog does not chase after an animal, it has too much power. This gives the dog a kick that activates the self-reward mechanism and overshadows the signals that usually work well in a calm atmosphere. Therefore, distraction maneuvers and attempts to stop an already hunting dog do little.

Training: systematic and well thought out

Accordingly, education should begin at the grassroots level and as early as possible. It’s about impulse control, cancel signal, “emergency brake” callback signal and dog-friendly alternatives. In everyday life, there are many ways to reinforce impulse control at different levels of difficulty. A succinct marker word, along with eye contact, forms the basis.

It is very important to always keep the sign word with a strong positive charge and accordingly valuable. This very high value word should be used with care and precise timing. I like working with two marker words: “Good” is my voice, my attention that gives the dog positive feedback. There’s always a super good treat with a “yes” and right away.

The termination signal and the work with the marker word are closely linked. Especially when it comes to strong stimuli that trigger a lot of energy in the dog, alternatively he needs to know what to do with them. A stop signal means the dog stops what it is doing. Good build is the foundation, starting small. Without training and support, we cannot expect a dog to suddenly stop in a state of high arousal. Hunting is not bad. Hunting is not wrong either. It’s part of the nature of dogs.

Emergency braking and motivation

The emergency brake recall signal is a signal generated to the dog’s highest motivation level, namely during play. It’s not a normal recall signal, it’s a highly emotionally charged signal, contains an easily callable word, you can put a lot of positive energy into the sound and you’d never use it otherwise (it could also be a dog whistle). more difficult where precise handling is required). The stimulation stick can be useful as a game item for construction because with it you can generate a lot of energy in a targeted manner. The basis is simplified as follows:

• Build up too much positive tension (dog withdraws, energy blocked)

• The callback signal is also the dial tone to be played.

• The signal is given again just before the dog grabs the toy. In this way, the strong positive stimulus is coupled to the signal.

• Then the game ends in silence

So they are very short, precise, high-charged gaming moments. It is very important during training and also when using the signal: the dog should never run into the gap when running back. It should always be a comprehensive game. After that, you should continue in a direction with little odor and trigger so that the dog can calm down again. The goal is to give the dog a real alternative at the energy level it has when chasing an animal. So we are operating at a high arousal level. And now it’s coming.

Attention should be paid to the stimulus bar and work at this level of excitement, because if the process and timing are not precise, it can very quickly have an adverse effect. It’s not about cranking the dog. This is not good for the dog and encourages exactly what we don’t want: hunting. You can’t be too careful, especially with young dogs. The process must be carefully considered for it to be truly constructive.

Systematic training, which includes all the elements that promise success and offer the dog a qualitatively balanced field of activity, begins with the decision to fight it, then for at least two to three months it becomes very intense and basically never ends. The dog’s desire to hunt accompanies us throughout the dog’s life.

Create freedom in prison

The leash or lunge (very long leash), adapted to the training needs and situation, has a variety of functions. There shouldn’t be a proper way to prevent escaping. While the training move acts as a safety for wild animals that share our walking environment, it also prevents the dog from running towards the self-reward mechanism and thus rising higher in excitement.

However, it cannot be justified to lead the dog on a leash for a lifetime without compensatory activities. The goal is to give the four-legged friend as much freedom as possible. Therefore, the move is always associated with training. We have to offer our dog something: search tasks, food bag training, eye contact strengthening, jogging movement, lunge, whatever.

A leash always belongs to a harness, not a leash, and is also not there to hold the tip when distracted (e.g. with a cell phone) and allow the dog to run all the way to the line of attack when it takes off. This shouldn’t happen. It requires training, attention and concentration on walking and lunge.

“Chair claim” is not the solution

Of course, the dog also needs to learn that we don’t want an animal chasing it in the first place. If we take care to set this limit as a puppy and at the same time offer alternatives such as nose work or tying activities, then there is a good chance that the dog will not become interested in the hunt. However, it is very important that the dog has learned what to do when he sees a cat or deer and “his feet itches”, but he pulls back: making eye contact, moving away from the dog owner, cuddling, playing enthusiastically, etc. The dog should never be left in a vacuum, otherwise at some point the energy will run away with it.

*Sibylle Kläusler is a dog and mental trainer.

Source : Blick