How good are the wines from Sweden?

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The entire vineyard area in Sweden, about 150 hectares, roughly corresponds to that of the municipality of Schaffhausen in Hallau. This mini-value is hardly surprising, as Sweden, one of the northernmost countries for viticulture, was actually very cold, at least until recently. However, this fact did not prevent Swedish viticulturalists from planting their first grapes in the southernmost and warmest region of the country about 30 years ago.

It was clear early on that fungi-resistant grape varieties – also known as Piwi – were superior in Sweden, as the environmentally conscious country outlawed the use of copper solutions to prevent, among other things, the spread of fungal diseases. About 95 percent of all grape varieties in Sweden are called Piwis, such as Solaris or Cabernet Cortis. Rarely, classic Vitis Vinifera vines such as Pinot Noir also develop.

Arilds Vingard

On a promontory to the sea and north of Malmö lies Sweden’s largest winery: Arilds Vingård. Piwis Solaris, Muscaris, Sauvignon Gris, Cabernet Cortiz and Vitis Vinifera Pinot Noir Precoce are grown on a 32-hectare vineyard. Responsible wine producer Joe Roman (39) completed his education at the University of Applied Sciences in Western Switzerland and also lived in Switzerland for several years.

Arilds Vingård sells almost all production in Sweden. Behind this is not only the monopoly obligation of the state-owned company Systembolaget, but also the environmental idea of ​​keeping shipping emissions per bottle of wine as low as necessary. When wines are transported around the world by ship, truck or plane, it causes a greater environmental impact than when drunk in the country where the wines are produced.

When it came to tasting wines in Switzerland, opinions differed greatly. Blick wine expert Alain Kunz (60) was disappointed: “The impression of wines ranged from bloated home pharmacies to herb gardens and hospital cleaning products. Plus, everything was so sour and bitter.” Wine editor Isabelle Thürlemann-Brigger (34) was a bit more piwi-affine: “The typical bitter notes in the PIWI varieties are a major challenge for cellar masters. But the Swedes have mastered their craft and used this perceived weakness to their advantage. In part, the bitter element in the overall composition had an enriching effect. ».

Kullaberg’s Vingård

About a five-minute drive from Arilds Vingård is Kullabergs Vingård winery, where the first grapes were planted in 2006. By the way, 14 hectares are planted with varieties Souvignier Gris, Solaris and Muscaris, Donauriesling, as well as Pinot Nova and Cab.Noir. 21 other cultivars being studied for possible future use are currently growing in a test field.

Blick spoke to responsible wine expert K Felix G Åhrberg (33) and wanted to know how he saw Sweden’s potential as a wine producing country. “Climate change has definitely helped us. It rains regularly but not too much and it doesn’t get too cold here along the seafront in winter. Long hours of sunlight during the growing season helps the grapes reach their natural maturity,” says Åhrberg, who sees the future potential of several thousand hectares of vineyards in Sweden.

Wines from Kullabergs Vingård were clearly superior in quality to Arilds Vingård. Blick wine expert and wine academic Tobias Gysi (45) approves the 2021 K, a dry Solaris white wine with a noble proportion of rot-affected grapes, “a discreet nose with a little chicory and a little tannin on the palate.” Alain Kunz also liked the wine and praised its fruity sweetness. The red wine RVP 2021, made from Rondo, Regent, Cab.Noir and Pinot Nova grape varieties aged in oak barrels for eight months, was also a good figure in this exciting crossover.

Blaxsta Vingard

Göran Amnegård (64) served as Swedish consul in Canada for 17 years, where, among other things, he was introduced to the famous Canadian ice wines made from the Vidal grape variety. Returning to Sweden in the summer of 2000, he bought a 300-hectare farm southwest of Stockholm and planted a small portion of the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Vidal grape varieties.

The busy Swede now runs a small hotel and gourmet restaurant on his farm, where he also cooks his own meals. With its ice wine, it has long established itself as the most sought after producer of Swedish dessert wine. Ice wine is in such high demand that small quantities are exported to Italy, England and Hong Kong, among others. Swiss ice wine collectors have already copied a few bottles from Amnegård.

In Blaxsta Vingård it weighs only a quarter of 10,000 kilograms of frozen grapes and produces about 600 to 700 liters of ice wine. The flavors immediately reminded me of freshly opened Milanese pulp and showed subtle nuances of dried peaches, vanilla and Mirabelle plums. What would make the wine even better would be a little more acid. Still, this Scandinavian ice wine is impressive and should remain a sought-after collector’s item into the future.

Source : Blick