In the footsteps of the legendary glacial wine

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In the Valais Eifischtal (French Val d’Anniviers) the tradition of glacial wine is continued. I feel transported back in time during my flight visit to Grimentz. In the narrow streets of the original village, the walls are fading with history. It goes past the typical wooden houses to the burger community. Local families gather here and advise on their property, including the municipality’s vines and the wines made from them.

In the basement of the venerable building, 4200 liters of glacial wine are stored in four imposing larch barrels. The other 144 barrels belong to the family and surrounding communities.

“Valais Strip”

The peculiarity of glacial wine is that the barrels used are neither fully filled nor emptied. In this way, the wine deliberately comes into contact with oxygen and ages. Over time, a complex profile resembling dried fruit and nuts develops. Also, the color becomes darker. Each year, after harvest, a new crop is added by partially mixing the oldest barrel with wine from the next youngest. The quantity is limited so that the independent character is preserved and the aromas of the young wine do not dominate. This production process is similar to sherry in Andalusia. It is also characterized by the blending of different crops and subjecting them to barrel aging.

origins

The beginning of glacial wine is in the dark. It can be assumed that the roots of the tradition are in the 13th century. Grapes were always grown on the valley floor and their grapes were wineed. The finished wine is then brought in and stored near the glacier, hence the name. In the past, barrels were scarce, so different crops were mixed and stored in the same container. Traditionally, barrels of glacial wine are made from larch wood. This conifer is common in Valais and its tree gives the wine a special flavor. Oak barrels are also used today as they are easier to obtain.

Local grape varieties

For decades, only the Resi grape variety was used. It has a neutral and acidic taste. Other white varieties from the region were added later: Chasselas, Ermitage, Malvoisie and Petite Arvine. After phylloxera destroyed most of the ivy at the beginning of the last century, Resi has almost completely disappeared. Today there are efforts to revive the old variety and since 2006 it has been reused for glacial wine.

private tasting

Lovers of glacial wine can consider themselves lucky. It is not commercially available and is only drunk on special occasions such as weddings, funerals and when dignitaries are invited. However, it is not reserved for insiders. You can visit the municipality of Grimentz as part of a public tour. Your visit will be crowned with a sip of glacial wine. A unique experience! The atmosphere in the basement seems almost religious to me. When you look at the barrels of 1969, 1934, 1888 and 1886, one’s heart is sublime.

A mouthful of past

It’s time, he’s resting. The first “Glacier” I tasted dates back to 1969 and is based on the Ermitage grape. Plump, surprisingly fruity for its age, but with nuances of ripe hazelnuts and mushrooms. On the palate it reveals a pleasant bitterness and grassy flavors that are noticeably friendlier than the 1934 cask Ermitage. I’m particularly excited for 1888, the oldest wine in the series. In addition to Ermitage, it contains wine from the Resi variety. I will not be disappointed! Although its cask is 134 years old, its contents are fresher than expected due to its high acidity. The mouth is dominated by salutation and resin notes; The finish is extremely long lasting.

Bishop’s Barrel

What remains is 1886, which supposedly stands on the barrel of the bishop. It is only offered to particularly important guests on special occasions. For example, the Federal Council or the bishop. That’s why I rejected it…

Source : Blick