After more than ten years working as a master cheese maker in Appenzell, Urban Kaufmann (51) realized that his life was not entirely satisfactory. Eva Raps 54, who also works at the German Prädikat Wineries Association (VDP), a few hundred kilometers away, faced a similar situation. At that point, the two of them didn’t know anything about each other.
“Wine was a daily drink for my father, so I ran into it early,” Kaufmann told Blick. Over the years, he also developed a growing interest in wine, but had some issues with great tastings at the beginning: “I was brutally overwhelmed at first because I ended up getting a seat at a time.”
“We fell in love while drinking a glass of Pinot Noir”
Kaufmann read trade magazines and completed wine courses. He worked two days a week at a winery in Thurgau to gain practical experience. “It was immediately clear to me that romantic winemaking was not part of everyday life there. If you don’t work hard, you can’t make great wines.”
Gradually, he realized that he wanted to not only become a winemaker, but also own his own winery. “I looked at Piedmont first because I love the area. However, since my knowledge of Italian is limited and it is very difficult to buy wineries in Switzerland, I looked to Austria and Germany with the help of a consultant.» Since Kaufmann was single at the time, his search request was a wifey winery.
Meanwhile, Raps was also looking. Your search query was: the man with the winery. When Kaufmann and Raps finally got to know each other, it all happened so quickly. “We fell in love while drinking a glass of Pinot Noir,” Raps says. Shortly after, the duo found what they were looking for in the German Rheingau viticulture region and bought a winery. They changed the name to Weingut Kaufmann. Raps says: “It’s all about coincidences that everything is so great.”
The couple is fully engaged in day-to-day affairs
When asked if he misses his Swiss homeland of Germany, Kaufmann replies, “No, he isn’t, but I value the Swiss quality of life much better than before.” High inflation in Germany has caused all prices to rise, including glass bottles and corks, while in Switzerland inflation seems to be better controlled.
Together, Eva Raps and Urban Kaufmann grow nearly 20 hectares of vineyards planted with Riesling, Pinot Noir (Pinot Noir) and a small proportion of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Raps says the couple split the work at the winery: “While making Urban wine, I take care of the office, marketing, sales, all events, and social media.”
“Our wines must be attractive at a young age, but also storeable,” Raps says. Kaufmann adds that he wants to make German wines with Swiss precision. The winery is now also biodynamically certified. The couple also spent a lot of time designing the bright red tag, which is a small Swiss cross. “We wanted something high-recognition and tidy.”
Crispy Riesling and elegant Pinot Noir
Initially I try two dry entry-level Rieslings: Riesling 2021 and Hattenheim Riesling 2021, which is a compilation from different places around the town of Hattenheim. As is typical for the Rheingau growing region, both wines are strong, have a distinctive acid structure, and yellow apple, grape and shows delicate fruit flavors of lemon.
I’m really going with the again dry Tell Riesling 2021, which is a mix of the four best Kaufmann plans. Named after the Swiss national hero Wilhelm Tell, Tell is significantly more complex than the other two Rieslings, much more spicy and very broad, and extremely delicate on the palate. Also this wonderful Riesling exhibits high tension like a spring. The Complex 2015 Tell proves that Kaufmann’s Rieslings can improve even after spending a few years in the bottle.
Rapseed and Kaufmann also love the Pinot Noir grape variety. The 2021 Hallgarten Pinot Noir +++ handles with about 30 percent new wood and is made from vines that average six years old. Here, too, the fruit flavors are clearly defined and harmoniously intertwined with the smoky notes of oak. Energetic, concentrated and elegant, the 2020 Hattenheim Hassel Pinot Noir offers a great Pinot Noir experience.
Swiss fondue sets the mood
If you want to visit the duo at the wineries in Rheingau, you can combine it with an original Swiss fondue between November and March. Social fondue events have already sprung up and are very popular not only among visitors from Switzerland but also among locals.