Anyone who thinks of Portugal’s wine country thinks of port wines first and foremost. Few people know that Portugal, which is planted with approximately 190,000 hectares of vineyards, also makes a name for itself with its traditional red and white wines. World champion sommelier Marc Almert (31), who is very familiar not only with Portuguese wines but also with optimal food combinations, wants to change that.
So, I meet the German with young Portuguese winemaker Kit Weaver (29) for lunch at the Die Blume restaurant in Zurich-Schwamendingen. Almert won the Sommelier World Championship at the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) in 2019 and has always been one of the most sought-after sommelier professionals in the world. Weaver is a young, innovative, new generation winemaker. He squeezes the wines of Quinta de la Rosa.
Portuguese wines are worth exploring
Quinta de la Rosa’s wines, both white and red, are in perfect harmony with the chosen dishes. Rather than dominating the flavor profile, they subtly but firmly complement the different flavors of the dish. For the Atlantic turbot with truffle savoy cabbage, Venere risotto and white wine foam, I try a red wine in addition to the white wine, which goes well with it.
My friends prefer the homemade noodles with fresh porcini mushrooms in a sherry cream sauce and the venison strips with wild mushrooms, spaetzle and venison garnish. Quinta de la Rosa’s filigree, elegant wines go perfectly with this, too. Finally, we try the Lichtensteiger Jersey Blue, a port wine that goes how otherwise perfectly with the cheese plate with port wine figs and roasted pecans.
Blick: Mr. Almert, what food accompaniments do you consider first with wines from Portugal, for example the Douro region?
Marc Almert: The Douro River flows into the Atlantic not far from the vines, so white wines are often unbeatable when paired with fresh seafood and light fish dishes. It is well suited for richer red wines, stews and game dishes or dried dishes. A white port tonic enriches every snack after work, especially when savory things like sardines, bacalhau (cod) or olives and ham come into play.
At the Baur au Lac Hotel in Zurich, you are the head sommelier. How often do you recommend Portuguese wines to your guests to accompany their meals?
Regularly! Unfortunately, Portugal is – still – one of the countries that is often skipped on the wine list. It comes almost exclusively with port wines, especially chocolate desserts or blue cheese. But Portugal can do so much more! At Baur au Lac we are particularly happy to recommend fresh white wines for dishes made with ingredients from the seas of this world. I also believe that anyone who loves Spanish reds should open their eyes further west.
Do you have a personal favorite winery in Portugal?
We have had close ties for decades with the Bergqvist family, who run Quinta de la Rosa in idyllic Pinhão. I’m particularly keen on dry wines here, but variegated ports are also among my insider tips for a cheese plate or tarte tatin. Sophia and her father Tim have taken the winery to new heights since the 1970s. There is now a boutique hotel and two restaurants where you can enjoy stunning views of the Douro and the vineyards with famous names such as Val do Inferno. His son, Kit, has been bringing other modern ideas to the winery for several years, and they complement each other ideally as a team. I especially like to recommend their dry red at Baur au Lac for weddings, because for me it is an excellent all-round product for both wine lovers and those who rarely have fermented grape juice in their glasses.
You’ve been to Portugal, the wine country, several times already. What is your best memory of your last stay?
After a ride on the historic, air-conditioned train from Porto to Pinhão, there’s nothing like sipping a refreshing White Port Tonic and gazing at a perched vineyard. When you return to Porto later, be sure to head to O Gaveto for an impressive Portuguese wine list paired with a variety of classic seafood dishes of unrivaled freshness. A real insider tip!