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Wine made from dried grapes: That’s why Amarone is the ideal winter wine

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A glass of Amarone in front of the fireplace is ideal on winter evenings.
Ursula Geigereditor wine

The wind is blowing outside and the fire crackles in the fireplace inside. Time to relax with a glass of Amarone. The wine, with aromas of dried fruit, black cherry and chocolate, beautifies the palate with its rich texture and sweetness. There is no need to eat anything. At best, a piece of fruit bread with hard cheese goes well.

Classic, coming from the hills of the Valpolicella region, has exploded in the last 30 years. The amount of Amarone grapes processed increased sixfold between 1990 and 2020, reaching 27,575 tonnes per year.

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Amarone legend

Legend has it that Amarone was a mistake because Valpolicella winemakers used the dried grapes for the sweet Recioto della Valpolicella. Due to the high sugar content in the grapes, fermentation stops and the wine retains 50 to 100 grams of natural residual sweetness per liter. In the 1930s, the cellar master, who was said to have completely fermented the Recioto barrel, tasted it so much that the word “amaro” (bitter) came to his mouth. The first Amarone was released in 1953.

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Lots of power thanks to Appassimento

Today, Amarone production is a science in itself. Suitable plots are selected at the end of September before harvest. Half of the yield goes to Amarone production, the other half is used for the lighter, cherry-fruited Valpolicella.

After harvest, Amarone grapes are dried on large grills in airy halls. Water evaporates, sugar, acid and tannin condense.

Appassimento is the name of this process, which will last until December 1 according to the law. Then the remaining sugary juice is squeezed from the shriveled grapes. Under current law, Amarone must be at least 14 percent by volume and contain no more than nine grams of residual sugar per liter.

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Excessive alcohol consumption is caused by climate change

Due to global warming, grapes ripen earlier and reach a potential alcohol content of 12.5 percent by volume in early September. If you wait to harvest, you run the risk of the alcohol content in appassimento skyrocketing to 17 percent by volume. In this case, a residual sugar content of 12.5 grams is allowed. Then Amarone appears heavy and sweet on the palate.

More elegant Amarones are in demand

Not everyone loves lush red. Many consumers are demanding less alcohol, less sweets and more elegance. The best winemakers in the region stand out with Amarone, which contains only a gram or two of residual sugar.

The creation of geographical subregions to clearly separate this more elegant style from the stronger ones is already being discussed. “Vallats” (valleys) may appear on the label only when the alcohol content is no higher than 13.5 percent by volume.

Such an arrangement would be ideal for producers: High-alcohol versions would continue to find audiences. If you prefer a more drinkable wine with your meal, you will be pleased with the lighter Amarone. It also goes well with grilled meats in summer.

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Source : Blick

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