The problem with hunting is the high energy that comes with it. A dog not only chases after an animal, but also has a lot of power in it. This gives the dog a kick that activates the self-reward mechanism and overshadows any signal that usually works well in a calm atmosphere. For this reason, distracting maneuvers and attempts to stop a dog that is already hunting are useless.
Training: systematic and well thought out
Accordingly, education should begin at the grassroots level and as early as possible. It deals with pulse control, cancel signal, “emergency brake” callback signal and dog friendly alternatives. In everyday life, there are many ways to reinforce impulse control at different levels of difficulty. Eye contact with a short marker word forms the basis.
It is very important to always keep the sign word a strong positive charge and accordingly valuable. This very high value word should be used carefully and with the right timing. I like to work with two marker words: “Good” is my voice, my attention, which gives the dog positive feedback. There’s always a super good treat with a “yes” and right away.
The termination signal and the work with the marker word are closely linked. Especially with strong stimuli that trigger a lot of energy in the dog, alternatively he has to know what to do with them. A stop signal means the dog stops what it is doing. Good build is the foundation, starting small. Nowhere, without training and support, can we expect the dog to stand on a high level of arousal. Hunting is not bad. Hunting is not wrong either. It’s part of the nature of dogs.
Emergency braking and motivation
The emergency brake recall signal is a signal built on play, the dog’s highest level of motivation. This is not a normal recall signal, but it is an extremely emotionally charged signal (it could also be a dog whistle) with an easily recalled word where you can put a lot of positive energy into your voice and would never use it otherwise. precision handling is essential in this case, more difficult). The stimulation stick can be useful as a game item for construction because with it you can generate a lot of energy in a targeted manner. The basis is simplified as follows:
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Build up too much positive tension (dog withdraws, energy blocked)
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The callback signal is also the dial tone to be played.
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The signal is given again just before the dog receives the toy. In this way, the strong positive stimulus is coupled to the signal.
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Then the game ended in silence
So they are very short, precise, high-charged gaming moments. It is very important during training and also when using the signal: The dog should never run into the gap when running backwards. It should always be a comprehensive game. After that, you should continue in a direction that is low on scent and triggers so that the dog can calm down again. The goal is to give the dog a real alternative at the energy level it has when chasing an animal. So we work with a high level of arousal. And now it’s coming.
Care must be taken with the stimulus bar and work at this level of excitement, because if the process and timing are not precise, it can have an adverse effect very quickly. That’s not the point of raising the dog up. This is not good for the dog and encourages exactly what we don’t want: hunting. You can’t be too careful, especially with young dogs. The process must be carefully considered for it to be truly constructive.
Systematic training, with all the elements that promise success and give the dog a qualitatively balanced field of activity, begins with the decision to fight it, then for at least two to three months it becomes very intense and basically never ends. The dog’s desire to hunt accompanies us throughout the dog’s life.
Create freedom in prison
The leash or lunge (very long leash), adapted to training needs and the situation, has a variety of functions. There should be no convenient way to prevent escape. While the training move provides security for the wild animals that share our walking habitat, it also prevents the dog from engaging in a self-reward mechanism, thereby increasing the excitement even more.
However, it is not justified to lead the dog on a leash for life without compensatory activities. The goal is to give the four-legged friend as much freedom as possible. Therefore, moves are always associated with training. We have to offer our dog something: search tasks, food bag training, eye contact strengthening, jogging movement, lunging, whatever.
A lunge always belongs to a harness, not to a leash, and it is also not there to hold the tip when he is distracted (e.g. by the cell phone) and is not there to allow the dog to fully enter the lunge when he takes off. This shouldn’t happen. Walking and training on a lunge requires attention and concentration.
“Chair claim” is not the solution
Of course, the dog also needs to learn that we don’t want him chasing an animal in the first place. If we take care to set this limit as a puppy and at the same time offer alternatives such as rhinoplasty or bonding activities, then there is a good chance that the dog will not even be interested in hunting. However, it is very important for the dog to learn what to do when he sees a cat or deer and “his foot itches”, but pull back: make eye contact, move away from the dog owner, get a hug. play with enthusiasm, etc. The dog should never be left in a vacuum, otherwise at some point the energy will run away with it.
*Sibylle Kläusler is a dog and mental trainer, www.kyno-mental.ch