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Tasted for you: News from Bolgheri/Maremma: Little Bolgheri ambassador and good value for money

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Serena Leoni from Terre del Marchesato demonstrates how to easily turn barricades to simulate efficient batoning with closed barrels.
Alain Kunzwine columnist

The Tuscan region of Bolgheri on Italy’s Etruscan coast needs no further introduction. The story begins with the Piedmontese Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, who first planted Cabernet varieties in the 1940s. This becomes Sassicaia. The wine he first launched in 1968 and started the tale at Maremma. Sassicaia is now an independent DOC.

Fuselli buys the land from the founder of Sassicaia

But we are talking about other goods of DOC Bolgheri. First time by Terre del Marchesato. Although: There is a direct cross-link. Because Emilio Fuselli bought the land directly from Niccoló Incisa della Rocchetta, son of the founder of Sassicaia. “But back then, the Fuselli family was doing all the farming work, as was customary at the time,” says Serena Leoni, the site’s Hospitality Manager. “So vegetables, fruits and vines. Alessandro Fuselli’s grandfather later became fully involved in viticulture.» This was in 1998.

70-year-old grafted Merlot vines

Specifically: Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, that is, classic Bordeaux varieties, as well as Syrah and Vermentino. Due to the family descent from Marches, Montepulciano vines were also grown initially. “But for home use only. Merlot vines were grafted later and are now seventy years old and still used,” explains Serena.

Terre del Marchesato produces a total of 100,000 to 120,000 bottles per year on 16 hectares of vineyards about three kilometers from the sea. It is ripened only on the barricades. In the case of the prestigious wines Aldone and Petit Verdot Maurizio Fuselli, the grapes are fermented in barricades. And always with natural yeast.

“In the beginning I was an experienced farmer”

Alessandro Fuselli describes himself as an experienced farmer at the young age of 23, thanks to his father and grandfather. But: It gets its first knowledge from Antinoris in Guado al Tasso, which is by far the largest producer in the region. He worked there for ten years as a production chief. In 2003 the family built a new cellar and pressed their first own wine, Emilio Primo.

Located close to the Ornellaia and Le Maccchiole plots, the property is almost doomed to produce the best wines. Because of its geographical location. And Alessandro Fuselli’s announcement: “From the very beginning, we wanted to create a niche of excellence alongside the best producers in this region and make our wines ambassadors of this terroir that ranks among the best in the world.” Today the range extends to the pure Petit Verdot by Alessandro Fuselli (“My wife and kids wanted this name”). Here the story ends. One thing is guaranteed: for now.

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After the job was done, Pink Challenge hosted Le Pupille winemaker Ettore Rizzi (left) and Co. He went on a small boat trip with him.

Le Pupille: The Pink Challenge

The core competence of Fattoria Le Pupille in the southern part of Maremma is not necessarily rosy. More than ten years ago I detailed the mansion of the charismatic Elisabetta Geppetti, her daughter Clara Gentili, and her son Ettore Rizzi. Here is the link. And the wines were last presented in 2021. Here is the link. Its flagship is Saffredi, a fantastic Bordeaux blend supported by prestige projects Syrah Le Pupille and Petit Manseng Piemme. However, Geppetti also wanted to know about rosé and was invited to the “Pink Challenge”. She put her rosamati into competition with some of the best roses in Italy and around the world. “We want to do our Rosato really well,” says Elisabetta, “so we take a close look at how the best of Europe are doing it. France, especially Bandol, has been a source of inspiration for us. That’s why we planted a Syrah plot especially for RosaMati. With this wine, we want to express the Mediterranean climate with the sea.» So how did RosaMati work out, with a blind rating of 17.5/20 for the 21er, perfect for me!

Pink Challenge wines (blind taste):

  • A Fattoria Aldobrandesca Marcheso Antinori 2021 (Aleatico): 17/20
  • Soft Tenuta di Biserno 2021 (Cabernet Franc, Syrah): 16.5/20
  • Si Duemani 2021 (Syrah): 16.5/20
  • Cuvee 281 Chateau Minuty 2021 (Grenache, Syrah): 17.5/20
  • RosaMati Fattoria Le Pupille 2021 (Syrah): wonderful, floral nose, slightly herbal, extremely fresh, has everything you would expect from a rose, including strength, structure, tension, irritating, smoothness, depth and a great finish. Score: 17.5/20 (16.90 francs)
  • Clos Mireille Domaines Ott 2021 (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah): 17.25/20
  • Bandol Rose Domaine Tempier 2021 (Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault): 16/20
  • Garrus Chateau d’Esclans 2020: 17/20 (without the exorbitant use of wood, wine costing around 115 francs can come to 18/20!)
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Monteverro winemaker Matthieu Tauney (right) pours pure wine from Blick editor Alain Kunz in his Monteverro cellar.

Monteverro: An unbelievably good Cabernet Franc soon

We are in Southern Maremma. In Capalbio, she is best known for the Tarocchi Garden by Niki de Saint Phalle and her husband, Jean Tinguely. But the winery of German horticultural entrepreneur Georg Weber is a must consider when visiting the area. It’s been almost ten years since I last tasted it. To read: here.

The last visit was primarily about neither the first wine Monteverro nor the second wine Tinata. However, it should not be understood as such, as it is a mixture of Côtes-du-Rhône. So not as a second wine. This is why it’s about Terra di Monteverro, the mansion’s “true” second wine. First released eleven years ago, the wine cries out for a vertical. We did this together with oenologist Matthieu Taunay and head of sales Andreas Comploj. And they probably shine as new baby. However, we do not know this for sure. 100% Cabernet Francs with barrel test madness.

Monteverro is considered by many to be a designer winery created from the ground up. It’s a work that exists only because of Weber’s millions. And then Parker-Chouchou Michel Rolland as consultant. I say bullshit. The wines speak for themselves. The rise continues. In fact, Monteverro has become a true locomotive of a region that is backward in terms of wine technology.

Ten Year Vertical Terra (plus 2019)

  • 2008: 17.25/20
  • 2009: 17.5/20
  • 2010: 17.75/20
  • 2011: 18/20
  • 2012: 17/20
  • 2013: 18/20
  • 2014: 17/20
  • 2015: 17.75/20
  • 2016: A beautiful and complex nose that has it all: freshness, herbs, spices, dark fruits, aromas of smoke, great on the first palate, fresh, full, fine tannins, great finish. Wow! Score: 18.5/20
  • 2017: 18/20
  • 2018: 17.75
  • And the latest vintage 2019outside the ten-year vertical: 18.25/20 (about 45 francs)

Source : Blick

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